By Joanna Styles
Discover a day in the life of the Costa del Sol’s capital, once “just an airport” but now a short break favourite, a tech and digital nomad hotspot, and a city whose culinary and cultural scenes get better and better on an almost daily basis.
Malaga sits about an hour and 20 minutes drive east from Sotogrande, some 115km that whisk you into Spain’s fifth largest city and one of its most up-and-coming tourist destinations. You enter along the western seafront, home to some of Malaga’s most desirable high-rises and a sweeping promenade, via tall industrial chimneys, the busy port and 19th-century facades. All hint at the unique blend of modernity, industry and tradition that you’ll find dotted across the city centre.
But first a touch of history. Malaga dates back to Phoenician times, making it one of Western Europe’s oldest cities. Much later, the Romans loved it, turning the city into a centre for garum tuna paste production to ship to the rest of the Empire. The Al-Andalus Empire also coveted Malaga, so much so that the Muslim era lasted eight centuries until 1492.
Fast forward to the 19th century and Malaga found itself at the heart of the Spanish industrial revolution, second only to Barcelona. European entrepreneurs flocked to the city to set up iron foundries, textile conglomerates and emporiums for sugarcane and Malaga wine. But by 1880, industrial recession and phylloxera both hit hard, sending the city spiralling from riches to rags for decades.
The opening of the Picasso Museum in 2003 jumpstarted the return to the glory days, and, in just 20 years, Malaga has transformed itself from lack-lustre into sparkling. It regularly ranks in Spain’s top ten for city breaks and welcomes around 1.5 million overnight visitors annually. The sparkle also draws in tech companies, with around 200 calling the city home, including Google, CapGemini, Citigroup and Vodafone. The new tech residents go hand-in-hand with discerning digital nomads – Savills recently ranked Malaga the third highest city on its Executive Digital Nomad Index.
But tourist and tech stats aside, the first thing to strike you about Malaga will be the light, that warm Mediterranean hue that infuses the city and makes you feel instantly welcome. Notice this warmth in the locals too, who convey their joie de vivre to all newcomers. Not for nothing does the city’s motto read “the very noble, very loyal and very hospitable Malaga”.
After a coffee as Malaga makes it (the city has no less than nine types whose blackness ranges from total in a solo to not much in a sombra or almost nothing in a nube), take a stroll through the main streets to your first cultural treat: some world-class art. Malaga has some of the finest art museums in southern Europe, housing works by the world’s greatest artists. All offer capsule collections, so you’re not overwhelmed by dozens of paintings in myriad rooms. As a result, you could easily visit more than one in a day and still clearly remember what was on the walls.
The jewel in the crown, the Museo Picasso Málaga, is credited with transforming the city from an unsung, run-of-the-mill location into a sought-after tourist destination. Since it opened in 2003, the Museum has completely renewed its collection several times, with works from the family’s archives. The latest in early 2024 showcases the iconic works from all periods of Picasso’s life, giving you an insight into his full artistic journey. While you’re there, don’t miss the peaceful patios, inside and out, both oases of tranquillity in one of the busiest parts of the city, or the extraordinary Phoenician and Roman remains in the basement, testament to Malaga’s ancient roots.
If modern art appeals more than Picasso, head for the Centre Pompidou at the heart of Malaga’s Port. Make your way there via the supremely elegant Pergola, whose flowing white structure is a city icon and one of the loveliest waterfront spots. Daniel Buren’s striking multi-coloured cube, another icon, greets you first and offers an idea of the avant-garde art that awaits in the museum. The Centre Pompidou changes its permanent exhibition every two years, drawing on the massive collection from her older sister in Paris. The current one takes the theme of habitation and displays works by an A list of artists, including Fernand Léger, Wim Wenders, Natalia Goncharova, Marc Chagall and David Hockney.
If you’re a fan of Spanish art, the Museo Carmen Thyssen is a must. The works on loan from the Baroness start with exquisite Gothic and Baroque pieces, before moving on to Spanish ‘costumbrismo’ where scenes from everyday life in 18th-century Andalusia dominate, and then later-century Spanish art, with two stunning Sorollas taking centre stage. Don’t miss the museum shop, brimming with exhibition souvenirs, specialist art books and artisan objets. These include some striking ceramic espetos, skewers of sardines grilled on an open fire and an essential ingredient at a summer lunch on the beach in Malaga.
After the culture, the lunch. El Pimpi, something of a tourist spot but still an authentic experience, offers local tapas within its labyrinth of interconnecting patios, decked in bullfighting memorabilia, flowers and celebrity-signed barrels. If you fancy a less crowded experience, sit outside on the pleasant terrace overlooking the Roman Theatre and Alcazaba. For more sophisticated quick bites, head to Tragatá, on the Alameda Principal, where two-star Michelin chef Benito Gómez has created the Malaga sister branch of his restaurant in Ronda. Centre stage on the menu here are the best ensaladilla rusa in Spain and world champion callos (tripe), but you’ll also want to try the steak tartare with bone marrow and the Iberico pastrami sandwich.
After the tapas, indulge in an ice cream from Casa Mira on Calle Larios, preferably their nougat turrón or Malaga wine flavours, both reputedly among the best in Spain. Enjoy while sitting on Calle Larios and watching chess games, street artists and the world go by.
Next up, a spot of retail therapy. You’re already in the right place since Calle Larios and the parallel Calle Nueva are the city’s main shopping hubs for brands like Massimo Dutti, Zara and Adolfo Dominguez. Stray slightly off this beaten trail for some unique stores, all perfect for buying a memento of Malaga for you or others.
Labienhecha at No 14 on Calle Compañía sells sustainable origami bags made in Malaga using vegan materials. They range from cute mini clutches to roomy maxi totes, all in a glorious colour palette. Mapas y Compañía at No 33 on the same street is a veritable treasure chest of books, games, decorative globes and model hot air balloons plus one of the best Tintin collections you’ll find anywhere. Pop down a block for a terrific trio: Temporánea Concept Shop on Calle Santos sells unique souvenirs of Malaga; Golden Tips has one of the best ranges of loose tea leaves and coffee beans in town. Their house blend is delicious and they grind the coffee to your specification; and Casa de Pedro Mira on Calle Especería, is the shop in Malaga for crafted sombreros and hand-painted fans.
On the other side of Plaza de la Constitución, wander down Calle Santa María to Cereria Zalo, the city’s oldest store. This tiny premises celebrates its 300th anniversary this year, from its origins as a funeral parlour to its current selection of religious candles and figurines (don’t miss those for a homemade Nativity scene). A short walk away, opposite the Cathedral entrance on Calle Cister is Alfajar, home to exquisite artisan ceramics and earthenware.
With golden hour fast approaching, it’s time for a little something on one of Malaga’s many terraces. If you’re after a bird’s eye view, several hotel rooftops have commanding vistas over the city and the Mediterranean. The loftiest views come on the 15th floor at AC Malaga Palacio, while you’ll find some of the most sophisticated at Lolita Skyview on the top floor of Only YOU Malaga. For a frontline view of the city skyline at sunset, make your way to Muelle Uno on the Port and La Terraza Laurent Perrier de Jose Carlos García Restaurant where the menu includes a 2019 Blanc de Blancs, paired to perfection with Bloody Mary oysters. Or wander slightly further along the quayside to Trocadero Casa de Botes, the latest addition to the hospitality group, also at home in Marbella and Sotogrande. Enjoy one of the house cocktails and a bite from the sushi corner while you sit on the waterfront and watch the sun go down.
When it comes to dining options, you’re spoilt for choice in Malaga, a city fast emerging as one of the hottest spots on the Spanish culinary scene. Not for nothing did the Macarfi Guide hosts its annual awards in Malaga in spring this year, listing dozens of restaurants in the city and province in the guide for the first time. For Michelin-star dining, try Restaurante José Carlos García, with regular and vegetarian tasting menus or Kaleja, run by Dani Canero. Other delicious culinary spots in the city include Cávala in the Soho district, whose menu takes fish and seafood to a whole new level; Araboka in the old quarter where you’ll experience a modern take on traditional local dishes; and La Antxoeta Art Restaurant, also in Soho, with its unique fusion of fresh produce and chef Pablo Caballero’s twist of rock and roll.
