By Chris Chaplow
Imagine a bright, sun-kissed afternoon with a gentle breeze sweeping across lush green fields. The air is filled with excitement, the gentle murmur of conversations overlaid with the clack of mallets hitting balls, the thunder of polo horse hooves, the encouragement of the spectators and bursts of applause. You find yourself at a polo match, a spectacle of elegance and athleticism, where tradition meets the thrill of speed and skill.
Polo, often dubbed the “the sport of kings”, is an ancient horseback field sport, a team game played on horseback combining strategy, agility, and horsemanship. It is played professionally in 16 countries, including Spain, the US, Argentina and England. Sotogrande hosts four prestigious polo clubs, with top international tournaments and world-class players.
History of Polo
The game of polo originates from Persia (modern-day Iran) in the sixth century BC, played by both men and women: it is one of the world’s oldest known team sports. Polo was used to train cavalry units and was practised in the royal courts. During the fifteenth century, the game was passed from Persia to other parts of Asia, particularly India, Tibet, Pakistan and China (via the Silk Road), but also Japan and Arabia.
In the 19th century, two British soldiers posted in colonial India, Lieutenant Joseph Ford Sherer and Captain Robert Stewart - who founded the oldest still-existing polo club, Calcutta Polo Club – brought the game back to their peers in England, using the Tibetan words for ball, “polo” and “pulu”. The British are then credited with spreading polo worldwide in the late nineteenth and the early twentieth century.
Polo came to Spain in 1870 thanks to Pedro Nolasco Gonzalez de Soto, son of the founders of Sherry winery Bodegas Gonzalez Byass. Gonzalez de Soto founded Spain’s first polo club, Real Club de Polo de Xerex in Jerez. Polo grew enormously in popularity during the rule of King Alfonso XIII, with clubs and grounds being established in Santander, Bilbao, Sevilla, Cordoba, Valencia and Granada. Subsequently polo in Spain declined in popularity until 1965, when the first ground was built in Sotogrande.
Polo in Sotogrande
Polo was brought to Sotogrande by its founding family. Colonel Joseph Rafael McMicking e Ynchausti and his wife Mercedes Zóbel de Ayala y Roxas. Manila-born McMicking was the heir to a Philippine multi-national conglomerate, Ynchausti y Compañía, while Mercedes was a member of the prestigious Zobel de Ayala family. Their aim was to build a Pebble Beach-style development in Spain. The couple founded Sotogrande in 1964 and the following year Enrique Zóbel, nephew of Mercedes Zóbel, built the first polo field, La Playa, between Real Golf Club and the beach. The first tournaments were held in 1967.
More recently, in the 21st century, polo experienced a revival and the famous grounds of Sotogrande have been dubbed the ‘Wimbledon of Polo Pitches’.
As Andres Ugarte, polo journalist and TV commentator explains, “Sotogrande is one of the great polo places in the world. Every polo player aspires to reach a 10-goal handicap, and to win the Argentine Open, the British Open, the US Open, and the Sotogrande tournaments. The seven fields on which the Sotogrande polo season is played are considered the best in Europe.”
Today there are several polo clubs in or around the Sotogrande area:
Santa Maria Polo Club is the most well-known polo club in Spain and dominates the fields with its three sites and facilities on and off the field.
Ayala Polo Club based in nearby San Enrique was founded by Iñigo Zobel, son of Enrique Zóbel and great-nephew of Mercedes Zóbel. Today the legacy has been taken up by the founder’s granddaughter, Paola Zóbel.
Other polo clubs in Sotogrande are La Querencia Polo Club and Tres Rosas Polo Club. Nearby are Club de Polo Dos Lunas and Club de Polo La Capilla in San Martín del Tesorillo, and Iridike Polo Club in Jimena de la Frontera.
What matches are there and where do they take place?
Tournaments take place throughout the spring and summer months at the polo clubs in Sotogrande – from 8 April to 15 September 2024. All the tournaments are free events open to the public.
The most important and prestigious tournament is the Sotogrande International Polo Tournament, which first took place in 1971 and, runs from the last week of July until the end of August (22 July to 31 August 2024). This tournament is divided into three Cups: Bronze, Silver and Gold.
This year in August there will be a test-match between the reigning FIP (Federation of International Polo) World Polo Championship world champions, Spain, and Argentina.
In 2021 the Ayala Polo Club took over from Santa Maria Polo Club as organiser of this prestigious summer tournament for at least five seasons until 2027. Most of the matches take place at the Santa Maria Polo Club’s facilities at their Los Pinos Ground near Sotogrande Marina, with some at Ayala.
The detailed daily fixtures are not published until a month beforehand.
How a polo match is played?
This fast-moving sport features teams of four players on horseback, each armed with a long-handled mallet. The goal? To drive a small ball down the field and send it soaring between the opponent’s goal posts’, there is no cross bar, the ball can be at any height.
The match begins when the umpire ‘bowls in’ the ball at the centre of the field. From that moment, it’s a whirlwind of galloping horses. Each time a goal is scored, the teams switch directions, a clever adjustment, ensuring a balanced game regardless of field conditions or wind. Horses race across the expansive grass pitch; the Los Pinos fields are over four times the size of a full-sized football pitch, such as Wembley.
The match is divided into seven-minute periods known as chukkas. Depending on the level of play, a match can have anywhere from four to eight chukkas, ensuring non-stop action. Between chukkas, there are four-minute intervals whilst a ten-minute break at half-time provides a welcome respite for both players and spectators. During these intervals, players switch to fresh polo ponies. At the professional level, players may change horses every 3-4 minutes to maintain peak performance.
Spectators can keep track of the game’s progress on the scoreboard, which displays the teams’ names and their shirt colours for easy identification. As the clock counts down on the seven-minute chukka, anticipation builds. The action doesn’t stop there—play continues for an additional 30 seconds or until a stoppage in play.
So, the next time you find yourself at a polo match, whether you’re a seasoned fan or a first-time spectator, soak in the vibrant atmosphere, the thunder of horses’ hooves, the clack of mallets striking the ball and the cheers of the crowd. It’s not just a game; it’s a heart-pounding adventure where tradition meets the thrill of modern sport.
Watching polo
Spectators are welcome to attend any of the tournaments, however the best one to visit, particularly for a resident or visitor to Sotogrande, is the Sotogrande International Polo Tournament at the Los Pinos Polo fields. Admission and parking are free.
There is a ‘VIP Daily Pass’, which costs 50 euros for the heats and 150 euros for the finals.
What to wear at the Polo?
The dress code for watching a polo match is smart-casual; aim for a timeless aesthetic with modern twists. For men, a lightweight suit or sports jacket, button-down shirt, chinos, and loafers; crisp Bermuda shorts and polo shirt; or sharp designer jeans. Women might wear a sundress or light trousers, for laid-back, effortless chic, while remaining cool and comfortable in high daytime temperatures – think floaty floral summer frocks, relaxed linen pieces, and large sun hats. Accessorise with either a statement necklace or dramatic sunglasses, whether classic or vintage. Cashmere layering or a silk shawl adds a touch of luxury and an extra layer of warmth for the cooler summer evening breeze, without compromising on style.
Panama hats are the traditional headwear for watching polo, but if you’ve forgotten to bring one, don’t worry – there’s a stand at Sotogrande polo matches selling quality Panama and wide-brimmed hats.
Who are the best players to look out for?
One of the key aspects of the Sotogrande polo season is that the standard is highly competitive. At the International Polo Tournament, you will be able to watch several of the best players in the world (all of those mentioned here are Argentinian).
Look out for Camilo Castagnola, playing in the Dubai team, current two-time champion of the Sotogrande High Handicap Gold Cup; Pablo Mac Donough, defending the colours of MB Polo (Prince Mateen of Brunei’s team), finalist in 2023 of the Sotogrande Gold Cup; Bartolomé (brother of Camilo) Castagnola and Facundo Pieres will also be playing.
It’s easy to see why this ancient game continues to captivate hearts around the world, offering an unforgettable experience of sporting excellence and vibrant community spirit.
Polo for Sotogrande residents and guests
Sotogrande SA is proud of the fact that polo is inextricably linked to the essence and identity of Sotogrande. This year they have a polo professional in their field-side VIP Hospitality Box to teach guests the rules of polo.
If you are a resident of Sotogrande, a guest of the SO/Sotogrande Hotel, or staying in one of Sotogrande SA’s rental villas, the concierge will be able to organise access to this exclusive VIP Box for you.
Check all the dates of the 53rd International Polo Tournament here.